The Wild and I

As a youth I purchased a bonsai from a local garden shop.  I somehow managed to keep the tree alive until finally it died in my college dorm room many years later.  The experience was less than fulfilling.  However, I was still fascinated with bonsai and its mystery.  I began to think they took centuries to grow.  My thoughts on the subject were then set aside.  Life’s adventures took me in other directions.  It was not until the fall of 2003 when after college I moved to Harrisburg Pennsylvania for my first job.  While sitting in my apartment one day I decided to Google bonsai in the local area.  I was looking for a botanical garden with a bonsai collection.  I came across an interesting page, a nursery called Nature’s Way Bonsai.  My first visit to the nursery was like my first day at college.  I couldn’t wait to see what was around the corner.  After viewing every tree in the nursery the questions began to flood in.  To find the answers, I took some good advice and joined the local bonsai club.  I slowly began to understand what it took to keep them alive.  If I knew then the time and dedication required to successfully grow great trees I might never have attempted it.  Thankfully I remained ignorant to what was truly required.  Monthly visits to the nursery rejuvenated by hope at becoming successful.  I began to educate myself through workshops and club demonstrations.  It took about two years to develop the horticultural knowledge and another two years to build a foundation for basic techniques.  Right when I thought I figure it out I was hit by the artistic and philosophical concepts.  This was when my education truly began.  I looked down the rabbit hole and couldn’t see the bottom.  This was a very humbling experience and I realized that it was just the beginning.  I started seeking out literature on subjects which supported the artistic / philosophical aspects of bonsai such as, visual thinking, the golden ratio, Taoism, and Minimalism.  First the artistic side clicked then the philosophical side.  This re-defined how I initially approach a piece of material.  I became much more selective.  I began focusing my efforts.  The natural world became more appealing and I found myself studying simple things like lichen growing on a log or how water flowed over rock.  I began to see subtle connections between other genre of art and my own.  During my 7^th year I soon began to see how blindly I was applying techniques.  I was trying to tell the tree what to do instead of listening and letting the tree guide me where it needed to go.  I soon began to understand that it wasn’t about me, it was about the relationship with the tree.  Trees are living things.  They have needs, wants, and desires.  I began feeling full of creative energy and was looking for an outlet.  I had finally reached a state where I was comfortable with my abilities.  I sought out techniques to achieve goals.  I became interested in other bonsai artists, in what they were doing and how they were thinking.  Now I was interested in the concept not only the tree.  Over time I observed them growing and studied how they perceived the passing of time.  Soon the trees were much more than bonsai. They were the connection between humanity and nature, between the wild and me.   I began to listen.  Once again I began to realize how simple and wonderful life could be.

June 12^th 2012

Maple Forest and Ponderosa

Maple Forest Workshop with Jim Doyle 2006

American Larch Group with Collected Trees from Maine, Workshop: Natures Way Nursery 2006

Ponderosa Collected September 2011

Ponderosa Collected November 2009.

VBS Show 2012

This year the Virginia Bonsai Society show was hosted at the Norfolk Botanical Garden in Virginia.  The show was judged by Pauline Muth from PFM Bonsai Studio, West Charlton New York.  Posted below are a few Pictures of the show.
 

Chinese Elm

Viburnum - Best of Show

Japanese Maple

Native Red Maple

San Jose Juniper

Lace Leaf Japanese Maple

Korean Hornbeam - Best Deciduous

Ponderosa Pine - Best Evergreen

Native American Larch Forest - Peer Award

Hornbeam Forest

Green Island Ficus - Best Tropical

Japanese Maple Forest - Best Group Planting

Pauline with VBS member critiquing a Native Red Maple Forest

Pinus ponderosa "Cultivation Notes"

Pinus ponderosa / Ponderosa Pine
Bonsai cultivation notes

Position Ponderosa Pine prefers full sun; provide protection from drying winds in winter.

Feeding Provide micro nutrients after candles have extended but before the needles begin to extend (pineapple stage).  Feed every other week with a well balance fertilizer in summer after shoots have extended and needles have hardened.  Stop feeding when the day time temperatures exceed 93 degrees F.  Late summer and early fall feed every two weeks with a low nitrogen fertilizer to stimulate and enhance bud and root growth.  Stop feeding 2-3 weeks prior to the first frost.

Watering Water as needed throughout the growing season; a well draining soil is suggested poor draining soils will quickly lead to root rot, especially with newly collected specimens.

Re-potting re-pot in fall or early spring every three to five years, when the tree has become established re-pot as necessary when roots fill the pot.

Pruning Collected Ponderosas have a slow growth rate so keep pruning to a minimum.  Structural pruning should be executed in late fall or winter when sap flow has slowed down.  During winter bring them in for 24 hours to completely thaw out before pruning, wiring, or shaping.  Restrict candle pinching and shoot pruning to only the vigorous areas.  Utilize existing branches to their fullest potential; growing new branches can take many years.  Note: I have observed rapid growth in some specimens, where the shoots have extended up to 4 inches in one growth cycle.  In the fall after they have hardened off I have cut them back by ½ only to be rewarded with prolific bud back the following spring.  This also helped to balance the energy throughout the tree.

Needle Cutting Selectively cut needles only in very vigorous areas during the fall to equally distribute energy and bring light and air to the inner and lower branches.  For refined trees remove apical buds on vigorous shoots if extension is not required.

Collected Specimens & Pre-Bonsai Collect specimens in fall to take advantage of the second period of root growth.  The long fall season here in coastal Virginia seems to help them become established before winter sets in (1^st week of January).  When collecting preserve as much of the root system as possible without disturbing the duff.  After transporting, wrap the long root extensions and the duff attached to the feeder roots, around the inside of the training pot.  Remove the original soil not the attached duff, keeping the roots moist and being careful not to damage the fine feeder roots.  Cut away dead roots and/or the tap root with a clean cut and seal with cut paste.  Save some of the original soil to reintroduce the microriza back into the soil.  Use a well draining soil mix to prevent root rot, water with Super Thrive (vitamin B) once a week for the first two weeks after collection.  Grow for one year without pruning allowing the root system to fully recover. Place newly collected specimens in partial shad until new buds have developed and new shoots have extended.  Note: I will only collect specimens if at least 40 percent of the fine feeder roots and duff can be preserved.  Specimens collected with less than 40 percent of the feeder roots will struggle during the next spring and may fail to produce buds and shoots the following year. If this occurs they will eventually becoming weak and die when the day time temperature exceeds 90 degrees F.  I have also observed that after collection some of the specimens will have needles that stand up and spread out after 3 weeks.  These are the trees that bud out first and grow profusely the next spring.  Following this procedure I have enjoyed an 85% survival rate.

Carpinus caroliniana "Cultivation Notes"

Carpinus caroliniana /American hornbeam
Bonsai cultivation notes

Position Carolina Hornbeams prefer slight shade particularly from mid-day sun, provide wind and frost protection in winter.  They have a tendency to lose lower branches when exposed to extreme elements.

Feeding Feed every week with a well balance fertilizer for a month upon leaf break in spring, every two weeks thereafter.  Stop feeding when the day time temperatures exceed 93 degrees F.  Late summer and early fall feed every two weeks with a low nitrogen fertilizer to stimulate and enhance bud and root growth.  Stop feeding 2-3 weeks prior to the first frost.

Watering Water generously throughout the growing season, hornbeams tend to dry out more quickly than other species (check daily).  Keep moist and well drained.

Re-potting re-pot in spring (before buds extend) every two years, when tree is ten years old re-pot as necessary when roots fill the pot. Hornbeams have a tendency to have a small number of straight, vigorous roots that emerge at angles from the trunk base. These need to be pruned back hard to encourage more numerous branching roots.
 
Pruning Allow the initial spring flush of growth to fully extend and harden off and then prune back the new growth very hard. This hard pruning will encourage back budding and a second flush of shorter, more compact growth for the remainder of the year while ensuring the tree remains vigorous. Remove large leaves as and when necessary.
 
Collected Specimens & Pre-Bonsai Collect specimens in spring before bud brake.  When collecting preserve the root system 8 inches from the trunk for every inch of trunk diameter.  Remove the original soil immediately keeping the roots moist and being careful not to damage the fine feeder roots.  Trim off the tap root and any large roots perpendicular to the trunk and seal with cut paste.  Cut the trunk two inches above where you want the new leader to grow.  Trunk cut Carolina hornbeams almost always bud out 1 to 2 inches below the cut; expect a few inches of die back.  Plant them directly into a well draining soil and water thoroughly with Super Thrive.  Place newly collected specimens in a shaded area until new buds have developed and extended.  Grow for one year without pruning allowing the root system to fully recover.  Before bud brake in the second year prune back the upper branches to one or two buds and let the leader in place to fully develop and build taper.  In the third and fourth years prune as needed to develop taper and anatomically correct ramification.  Prune leaving at least one bud, they will experience die back if there is no visible bud on the branch.  Seal all exposed areas with cut paste.

Defoliation Defoliate refined specimens in midsummer by removing all leaves leaving just one at the tip of each branch.  Defoliation is conducted on vigorous and anatomically mature specimens only, with the goal of reducing leaf size and promoting back budding.  This is stressful on the tree so implement every other year allowing a one year rest period.
 
Pests and diseases Coral spot, caterpillars and aphids, sun scorch to leaves.  Note: be sure to examine newly collected root systems for grubs.  Warning: Examine the root systems of collected specimens; I have noticed at least 1 in 4 contain a grub that bores into the base eating away at the feeder roots.

Maintenance Calendar for Coastal Virginia

 For those of us in Coastal Virginia, I have put together a summary of tasks for maintaining our refined and pre-bonsai stock.  (USDA Zone 8a)

January

· Work on styling pines.  Thaw out for 24 hours before work.

· Check trees in winter storage every week for water needs.

February

· Potting begins the second or third week of this month.  Trees are re-potted in this order, Japanese maple, general deciduous, larch, hornbeam, pines, junipers, and beech.

· Trident maples can be re-potted a little late as long as the tiny leaves are still red.

· After re-potting leave trees out in the sun, the heat will stimulate root production.

· Larch, wire, prune leaving at least one bud behind cut to prevent die back.

March

· Finish up potting by mid March.  This month you should be re-potting the azaleas, boxwood, and other broad leafed evergreens.

· The first two weeks of March are a great time to collect native Carolina Hornbeam.

· By mid March the buds on Japanese maples should be extending.  Now is the time to pinch out the centers to prevent extension and reduce inner-nodal length. (Refined trees).

April

· Begin feeding.  For refined deciduous trees, wait until new leaves have hardened off before fertilizing lightly.  For trees in training, your goal is to increase trunk diameter.  Fertilize your trees early. 

· Feed Japanese Black Pines heavily to assist the trees in budding after de-candling.

· Deciduous pinch or cut new shoots when they have hardened off.

May

· Mid May wire deciduous trees in pre-bonsai training.  Cracks will heal easier when sap is active.  Check wire often.  Wire when branches are still young.

· Fertilize trees in training

· Candle pinch pines to balance energy during the pineapple stage before the needles begin to extend.

· Apply micro nutrients to pines right before the candles pineapple stage.

· Eastern White Cedar, feed moderately year round.  Prune off long shoots on strong areas, leave the others alone.  Be careful of new foliage when wiring.

June

· Wire trees in pre-bonsai training.

· Work on Junipers, remove spring growth with sharp scissors leaving a small portion of the new growth.  Protect trees from hot midday sun after cutting back.  After a few weeks pinch back new growth lightly.  Some part of the new growth always needs to be kept.

· Early to mid June de-bloom and prune Azaleas.  Pruning late will weaken shoots and flower buds.

· De-candle refined Japanese Black and Red Pines, 3^rd or 4^th week of June, you should remove fertilizer and let it spend its own reserved energy for one month to six weeks.  Then start to feed in mid August to November.  For trees in training do not de-candle, feed it till the end of the year.
 

July

· Feed finished trees lightly

· Feed trees in training

· Japanese maple do not defoliate after mid July.

 

August

· Stop all pruning and pinching.

· Japanese Black Pine, de-candling  should be sending out new buds at this time.  If you have more than two, leave them alone and then thin them back in the fall.  You can thin them out when you pull old needles.  Leaving them will cause long needle growth and bud extension.

· Ponderosa, mugo, high mountain pines, larch, After needles harden off , it is time to feed them with low nitrogen fertilizer.
 

September

· Ponderosa, mugo, high mountain pines, clean out old needles.

· Late September to October, collect wild pines.

·Trim shoots of pre-bonsai pine stock to desired branch length, you should see new buds develop in November.

 

October

· Root prune ground stock with shovel and rotate if necessary to allow sun access to all areas.

· After leaf fall wire deciduous refined trees, be careful of heavy bends, this time of year there is low sap flow.  Leave stubs for winter die back.

 

November

· Eliminate dominant buds on refined pines leaving 2 of the weaker buds.

· Work on styling pines.

 

December

· First week of December begin preparing winter storage.

 · Spray with diluted lime sulfur, Note: do not spray azaleas, hemlock, spruce, or recently styled trees.